How to improve grip strength for climbing

6 Best Rice Bucket Exercises for Climbers! VLOG!

6 Best Rice Bucket Exercises for Climbers! VLOG!30 Jul. 2018
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Central Rock GymSubscribe 438 721

Alex heads to Central Rock

Alex heads to Central Rock Gym Watertown and meets with coaches Ryan and Jess. They go over the 6 best rice bucket exercises for every climber and why the rice bucket is crucial to every climber's health.


Comments (8)
Dave Miko

RE: "Rice Bucket" exercises?
How do you deal with things like humidity, (or sweat), promoting the growth of mold or mildew; or interested critters, (bugs and/ or rodents); and what about multiple users, any problems/questions about the exchange of bodily fluids ...
These modern times, ya know!

Nicole Wong

Not sure how my grandma is going to react if she sees me sticking my hand into her rice bucket

James Lee

If extensors are the first thing to wear our when endurance training doesn't that indicate they are in fact being worked? Contrary to saying that they don't get worked as much as the flexors

Stephen 2.0

Hey great VLOG!! I really enjoyed it? I also do fitness vlogs and also some comedy ? check it out! Liked and subscribed to your channel!! Keep them coming ??

Nathan Van

best part about being asian, is that i have a rice bucket in my pantry xD

james smith

I've been using sand instead of rice

Prusik Mallorca

Nice exercises, thanks for posting!!!

Jason Wang


How to improve your grip strength for climbing

How to improve your grip strength for climbing11 Nov. 2020
Miguel ClimbsSubscribe 438 721

Does grip strength

Does grip strength determine how good of a climber you are? In this episode I go through a very effective exercise to improve your pinch strength. And we try a couple of problems from the new set in the left cave.

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Comments (4)
Boulder Matt

Exactly the video I need right now in lockdown ?? thanks dude!

Timmy Tanksley

Dang, Justin out here with crazy grip strength lol

Ryan Goes Climbing

Your gear is so good. And that gym is beaut. Pretty jealous over in England during our second lockdown round about now ?

Chad Venture

great, now i've gotta come up with a new excuse

How to Develop a Stronger Pinch Grip for Bouldering and Rock Climbing

How to Develop a Stronger Pinch Grip for Bouldering and Rock Climbing28 Jan. 2020
38 086

Learn a simple, yet

Learn a simple, yet effective training method for developing a stronger pinch grip for bouldering and rock climbing. (This will also strengthen your thumb-lock for "closed crimp" gripping small holds.) The pinch-grip Repeater training protocol explained by Coach Hörst involves doing 3 sets of Repeaters (each set is a 7-second pinch done 6 times with each hand). Equipment featured in this video includes "The Block" by Tension Climbing and a free-weight loading pin by Rogue Fitness. https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/the-block/

This video is brought to you by PhysiVantage Performance Nutrition, the first complete line of research-based, athlete-proven supplements for climbers. PhysiVantage's premium-grade products are designed to increase strength, improve endurance, accelerate recovery, aid injury rehab, and provide injury resistance. Learn more at: https://physivantage.com/

Other sponsors include: La Sportiva, DMM, Maxim Ropes, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing, and https://trainingforclimbing.com/

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Comments (32)

I just started pinch training. Your timing is impeccable! Thanks for the video!!


Just curious, why the alternating hand repeaters rather than just doing 7/3 repeaters on one hand, then switching? Is the extra rest for the non-active hand beneficial?

moon ryu

is wood grip strengh is same thing as pinch grip?


Thanks for your tips!

Climber Dad

If you want to make your own pinch block here is my How to for any skill level.

Shaun Mynard

Would you train pinch the same day as you use the finger board ?

Climber Dad

Thanks Eric!
Can I share my How to Make a Pinch Block video here? Although now I think some redesigning is in order :)


Nice and very informative video- love the new relaxing music ....can we have more follow along as well (like the abs one)?

integral merr

Great video, subbed!

Mikey Conroy Climbs

I am definitely going to start training this now!

Legend McCharen

Keep the wrist straight or flexed?

horse trade

Every once in a while you find someone who knows what they are talking about... Nice one, thanks!

James Dazhong Cook

Whoaahhhh just came back from the gym having gotten shut down repeatedly on the last move of a v10 with a horrible fat pinch at the end... youtube recommendations are another level

Jon Krause

Very informative and reinforcement of why we need to train the pinch grip. I started a few weeks ago with Frictitious block and felt tremendous growth in strength-16 lb to 28 lbs training weight. I have always averted training because of perceived long weeks of training; I modified to 2 times a week, incorporated pushups between sets. Originally started 5 minute rest, but now cut down to 1 minute. Best part is my wife is doing pinch training (not a climber) for her finger pain/arthritis-it’s getting better and it’s an activity we do together.

Luis Dominguez Mora

Great video and detailed instruction!!!
Would you recommend using the Tension block over the Frictitious block and why?

Casey Cronan

I broke my left thumb at that last joint a couple years ago and for some reason that hand has a stronger pinch grip. ??‍♀️There was like a whole month when I couldn’t even hold a pencil...

American Man

I made my own pinch block cuz of you and I can definitely tell a difference in my pinch strength now. Thanks for all the tips I love the way you explain everything

Logan Jung

What is the device you have for holding the weight for the pinch grip? How would I make one myself or have something similar?

clément Sauzet

Thank you for this great video. Question do you need to be warm to do it? Plus, shoud I include this routine into myrest day ?

Thank you again,


Ive been training pinch grip for some years now on a hangboard. I like to combine it with a pinch pullup. That way i dont have to time it since it takes around 7s. Ive been thinking about doing a pinch training with arms down and standing up but i havent found a "rack" to put the weight plates on.

Geek Climber

Love the tips! Insane on how you were able to pinch that huge rock!

James Trotman

youve got some good tips here, im trying to develope a tool for me and my friends to train grip/ finger and pinch strength. this video was really helpful thank you


I use a good old brick for this

Hrome Hrome

Quick question. How come you recommend doing repeaters rather than max hangs? Usually for training maximum strength you do roughly 10 seconds of maximal effort and then rest for quite a while. Why is it any different for pinches?

Greg Luesink

Suggested Edit for the Video: at 1:44, your picture for "flexor pollicis longus" (FPL) muscle is incorrect. Flexors are on the anterior side of the forearm, while this picture is a posterior view (as can be seen by the Olecranon Process, or the bony part of the elbow, at the bottom of the picture). Also, the origin of the FPL is the Radius, not the Ulna. Since the muscle in this picture is originating from the ulna, it can't be the FPL. This is tricky because it appears you are looking at a left-hand front view... but the picture is an (upside-down) right-hand back view! The muscle shown in the picture appears to be the Extensor Pollicis Longus.
Just for accuracy' sake!
-OCD Kinesiology Student

DIY Climbing Holds

I’ve been doing this for quite some time due to your older video which showed this method. I went to Home Depot and purchased a bed post topper which worked perfectly.

Jiri Pereverzov

Hi Eric, thank you a lot for all these videoa and training tips. Do you think the training power balls are appropriate for the pinch grip protocol? I have got the biggest size and when i hold them the last pads of my thumb and fingers are just in the middle part of the ball. Or possibly use the balls as alternative and do one session with straight block and other with balls? Thank you and be sure your videos are watched as far as Czech republic as I share ypur videos amongs my climbing buddies. Take care...

Shaun Mynard

Would you train pinch the same day as you use the finger board ?


Great advice, how do you call the rack where you put the weight plates on for this exercise? Looking to buy one. Thank you

Ethan Anweiler

I made my own pinch blocks out of 4x4 fence post a while back and they work wonders. I've noticed improving ones pinch game is surprisingly helpful for lots of boulders! Love the training vids Eric, keep em coming! :)


great video thanks!

John Woods

Thank you. I am a packer at Amazon this will help me immensely. Thank you.