How to improve grip strength for climbing

I've been using sand instead of rice

Nice exercises, thanks for posting!!!

GOD BLESS

Would you train pinch the same day as you use the finger board ?

Thanks Eric!
Can I share my How to Make a Pinch Block video here? Although now I think some redesigning is in order :)

Nice and very informative video- love the new relaxing music ....can we have more follow along as well (like the abs one)?

Great video, subbed!

I am definitely going to start training this now!

Keep the wrist straight or flexed?

Every once in a while you find someone who knows what they are talking about... Nice one, thanks!

Whoaahhhh just came back from the gym having gotten shut down repeatedly on the last move of a v10 with a horrible fat pinch at the end... youtube recommendations are another level

Very informative and reinforcement of why we need to train the pinch grip. I started a few weeks ago with Frictitious block and felt tremendous growth in strength-16 lb to 28 lbs training weight. I have always averted training because of perceived long weeks of training; I modified to 2 times a week, incorporated pushups between sets. Originally started 5 minute rest, but now cut down to 1 minute. Best part is my wife is doing pinch training (not a climber) for her finger pain/arthritis-it’s getting better and it’s an activity we do together.

Great video and detailed instruction!!!
Would you recommend using the Tension block over the Frictitious block and why?

I broke my left thumb at that last joint a couple years ago and for some reason that hand has a stronger pinch grip. ??‍♀️There was like a whole month when I couldn’t even hold a pencil...

I made my own pinch block cuz of you and I can definitely tell a difference in my pinch strength now. Thanks for all the tips I love the way you explain everything

What is the device you have for holding the weight for the pinch grip? How would I make one myself or have something similar?

Thank you for this great video. Question do you need to be warm to do it? Plus, shoud I include this routine into myrest day ?


Thank you again,

Ive been training pinch grip for some years now on a hangboard. I like to combine it with a pinch pullup. That way i dont have to time it since it takes around 7s. Ive been thinking about doing a pinch training with arms down and standing up but i havent found a "rack" to put the weight plates on.

Love the tips! Insane on how you were able to pinch that huge rock!

youve got some good tips here, im trying to develope a tool for me and my friends to train grip/ finger and pinch strength. this video was really helpful thank you

I use a good old brick for this

Quick question. How come you recommend doing repeaters rather than max hangs? Usually for training maximum strength you do roughly 10 seconds of maximal effort and then rest for quite a while. Why is it any different for pinches?

Suggested Edit for the Video: at 1:44, your picture for "flexor pollicis longus" (FPL) muscle is incorrect. Flexors are on the anterior side of the forearm, while this picture is a posterior view (as can be seen by the Olecranon Process, or the bony part of the elbow, at the bottom of the picture). Also, the origin of the FPL is the Radius, not the Ulna. Since the muscle in this picture is originating from the ulna, it can't be the FPL. This is tricky because it appears you are looking at a left-hand front view... but the picture is an (upside-down) right-hand back view! The muscle shown in the picture appears to be the Extensor Pollicis Longus.
Just for accuracy' sake!
-OCD Kinesiology Student

I’ve been doing this for quite some time due to your older video which showed this method. I went to Home Depot and purchased a bed post topper which worked perfectly.

Hi Eric, thank you a lot for all these videoa and training tips. Do you think the training power balls are appropriate for the pinch grip protocol? I have got the biggest size and when i hold them the last pads of my thumb and fingers are just in the middle part of the ball. Or possibly use the balls as alternative and do one session with straight block and other with balls? Thank you and be sure your videos are watched as far as Czech republic as I share ypur videos amongs my climbing buddies. Take care...

Would you train pinch the same day as you use the finger board ?

Great advice, how do you call the rack where you put the weight plates on for this exercise? Looking to buy one. Thank you

I made my own pinch blocks out of 4x4 fence post a while back and they work wonders. I've noticed improving ones pinch game is surprisingly helpful for lots of boulders! Love the training vids Eric, keep em coming! :)

great video thanks!

Thank you. I am a packer at Amazon this will help me immensely. Thank you.